Niv-Nal (1924)

Lanvin introduced Niv-Nal in 1924, a perfume whose name alone sparks curiosity. At first glance, Niv-Nal appears unusual, even exotic, as though borrowed from a distant language or an ancient incantation. In reality, it is a clever reversal of the name “Lanvin.” Jeanne Lanvin’s decision to invert her own name suggests both playfulness and sophistication, a creative act that transforms something familiar into something mysterious. The mirrored effect of the name evokes ideas of reflection, symmetry, and hidden depth—qualities perfectly suited to perfume, which is itself an invisible art that reveals new facets over time.

The year 1924 fell within Les Années Folles—“The Crazy Years”—France’s counterpart to the Roaring Twenties. Paris was a vibrant center of modernism and artistic innovation, alive with jazz, cinema, and avant-garde fashion. Women were casting off the restrictions of earlier decades: corsets had vanished, hemlines rose, and short, sleek bobs became the hairstyle of the age. Fashion embraced geometric lines, beading, and metallic fabrics, anticipating the Art Deco style that would soon dominate after the 1925 International Exposition of Decorative Arts in Paris. Perfumery, too, was undergoing transformation. The great aldehydic florals, led by Chanel’s No. 5 (1921), had redefined what a “modern” perfume could be, while oriental blends like Guerlain’s Shalimar (1925) captured the fascination with exoticism and sensual luxury.

In this cultural landscape, a perfume called Niv-Nal would have spoken directly to the modern woman. Its reversed name hinted at mystery, daring, and a willingness to step outside tradition. To wear Niv-Nal was to align oneself with the new freedoms of the 1920s—women who were smoking in public, dancing the Charleston, and embracing bolder roles in society. The fragrance’s title alone suggested something reflective and unconventional, a perfume that challenged expectations rather than followed them.

Created by Madame Marie Zede, Niv-Nal carried Lanvin’s reputation for refinement into the world of perfumery. Although the exact formula remains elusive, the name itself can be read as a metaphor in scent: something both luminous and shadowed, with layers that play against one another, much like the mirrored inversion of the word. Zede, known for her sophisticated handling of iris and violet accords, likely employed a similar balance here—pairing delicate florals with modern synthetic notes to give the composition both elegance and daring.

In the context of other fragrances of the early 1920s, Niv-Nal was both timely and distinctive. It reflected the experimental spirit of the age, when perfumers were no longer bound to single-flower soliflores but were exploring abstraction, texture, and contrast. Yet its clever name set it apart, embodying the wit and originality that defined Jeanne Lanvin’s creative vision. For the women who wore it in 1924, Niv-Nal would have felt like more than perfume—it was a declaration of modernity, sophistication, and a playful embrace of the new.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no published notes on this perfume. I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Niv-Nal enjoyed only a brief life on the market, discontinued in 1926 just two years after its launch. Its unusual mirrored name, however, retained enough significance for the house of Lanvin to revisit it later. In 1948, the name Niv-Nal was re-registered as a trademark, noted in Rivista Italiana, the official Italian trademark publication. This suggests that even though the fragrance itself had vanished from shelves, Lanvin considered the name valuable—either as part of its heritage or as a potential revival for future use.