Kara Djenoun (1924)

Lanvin launched Kara Djenoun in 1924, a perfume whose name immediately carries mystery and exoticism. Occasionally misspelled in period references as Kara Dujanum, the true name is rooted in Jeanne Lanvin’s fascination with her travels and the wider world. Pronounced as KAH-rah jeh-NOON, the phrase draws from Arabic. The word djenoun (جنون) refers to spirits, demons, or supernatural beings—the source of the English “genie.” Jeanne Lanvin was almost certainly inspired by the Algerian mountain Garet el Djenoun, which translates to “mountain of spirits” or “mountain of genies.” The added word kara, meaning “black” or “dark,” heightens the sense of danger and allure. Thus, the name Kara Djenoun evokes a place of mystery, haunted beauty, and shadowy enchantment.

The imagery it conjures is dramatic: windswept desert mountains, hidden caves where spirits dwell, and the intoxicating blend of fascination and fear associated with unseen forces. For the modern woman of the 1920s, such a name would have suggested not only exotic landscapes but also the thrill of transgression—something dangerous, alluring, and deeply sensual. To wear Kara Djenoun was to embrace a fragrance that promised an escape from ordinary life into a world of fantasy and forbidden mystery.

The timing of its release is key. The year 1924 was within the cultural bloom of Les Années Folles, or “The Crazy Years,” when Paris was at the center of global creativity. The Art Deco style was taking hold, modernism was shaping every art form, and women were redefining their roles in society. Fashion favored sleek silhouettes, lavish embellishments, and bold accessories that celebrated modern confidence. In perfumery, the fascination with the “Orient”—a romanticized vision of the Middle East and North Africa—was in full swing. Exoticism became synonymous with sensual luxury. Guerlain’s Shalimar would debut the following year, cementing the oriental style as one of the decade’s great movements.

Created by André Fraysse, Kara Djenoun was reportedly an oriental fragrance, aligning with this trend while giving it Lanvin’s own interpretation. Oriental perfumes of the 1920s typically blended rich resins, warm balsams, and opulent spices, layered with soft florals or vanillic sweetness. For Lanvin to embrace this style with a name evoking desert spirits and mythic mountains positioned the fragrance as both modern and mysterious. Women of the era, increasingly daring in their choices, would have found Kara Djenoun intoxicating—a scent that felt like stepping into an exotic tale of danger and seduction.

In the context of the perfume market of its time, Kara Djenoun did not stand alone but joined a growing wave of orientals that responded to the cultural appetite for fantasy, sensuality, and faraway lands. Yet its name, directly tied to Arabic lore and geography, set it apart by rooting its allure in a real-world mythos rather than purely imagined exoticism. In this way, Lanvin’s Kara Djenoun balanced fashion with fantasy, offering women of the Jazz Age a perfume that was as enigmatic and unforgettable as its name.

Fragrance Composition:

So what did it smell like? It was reportedly an oriental fragrance. I have no notes on this perfume, I would need a sample to tell you what it smells like.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1928.