Rumeur (1934)

Rumeur by Lanvin was launched in 1934, a period of elegance and experimentation in both fashion and perfumery. The name Rumeur, French for “rumor” and pronounced "roo-MEUR", evokes intrigue, secrecy, and allure. Jeanne Lanvin likely chose this title to capture a sense of whispered fascination—perfume as a private statement, a subtle yet irresistible presence. The word conjures images of hidden glances, fleeting whispers in candlelit salons, and the electric allure of mystery, promising sophistication and an understated sensuality to the woman who wore it.

The mid-1930s was a time marked by refinement and glamour in Europe, even as the world faced political uncertainty and economic recovery after the Great Depression. Fashion favored soft, flowing lines that emphasized elegance and femininity, with fur coats, tailored suits, and evening gowns dominating the wardrobes of society women. Perfume was an essential accessory for these ensembles, and designers like Lanvin were creating fragrances that complemented both daytime refinement and evening allure. Women of the period, particularly those dressing in furs or attending social evenings, would have been drawn to a fragrance called Rumeur for its suggestion of discreet charm, sophistication, and subtle seduction. In scent, the word Rumeur implies something elusive yet captivating—a fragrance that intrigues without revealing all of its secrets, like a whispered story in a dimly lit room.

Created by André Fraysse, Rumeur is classified as a tangy, fruity, spicy chypre for women, designed primarily to enhance the luxurious warmth of furs. Its olfactory composition evokes a sensory journey: the perfume opens with bright, tangy fruit notes reminiscent of sunlit orchards, then flows into a floral heart of iris and jasmine, introducing powdery elegance and creamy sweetness. Oriental flowers and resins contribute a subtly exotic, warm, and mysterious quality, while the chypre base—typically incorporating oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli—grounds the fragrance with depth, sophistication, and longevity. The overall impression is of a scent that “charms and holds back,” a sophisticated evening fragrance that wraps the wearer in a quiet aura of sensuality.

In context, Rumeur aligned with the trends of its era while offering its own distinctive personality. The 1930s saw many perfumes exploring chypre and floral-oriental compositions, but Rumeur’s particular combination of tangy fruit, resinous woods, and powdery florals lent it a modern, elegant sharpness that distinguished it from softer, purely floral contemporaries. Its intentional pairing with furs also reflected a growing sophistication in marketing fragrances—not merely as perfumes, but as complements to fashion and lifestyle. In this way, Rumeur was both of its time and uniquely expressive, offering a subtle, intriguing charm that appealed especially to brunettes, according to contemporary descriptions, and inviting the wearer to participate in the understated drama of scent as social signature.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Rumeur by Lanvin is classified as a tangy, fruity, spicy chypre fragrance for women. "Rumeur smells of the fragrant forest, the orchards under the sun and the oriental flowers with resin scents, reveals iris and jasmine. It is a perfume which charms and which holds back. Perfume for the evening; it will especially appeal to brunettes it envelops in a secret."

• Top notes: aldehydes (what kind?), Calabrian bergamot, peach accord, plum accord, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal
• Middle notes: Florentine iris concrete, Veronese orris butter, ionone, Chinese gardenia, Grasse rose, geraniol, Grasse jasmine, Indonesian nutmeg, Ceylon cardamom, Zanzibar clove, eugenol 
• Base notes: Middle Eastern resins, green leaf accord, Abyssinian civet, Virginia tobacco, Mexican vanilla, vanillin, Maltese labdanum, leather, isobutyl quinoline, Penang patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, coumarin, Tyrolean oakmoss, Java vetiver, vetiveryl acetate

Scent Profile:

The opening of Rumeur immediately sparkles with aldehydes, which give the fragrance its signature lift and airy radiance. Likely a mix of C-10 and C-12 aldehydes, these molecules create a bright, slightly soapy shimmer that feels modern yet delicate—a hallmark of 1930s French perfumery. Complementing this abstract sparkle is Calabrian bergamot, with its crisp, slightly bitter citrus peel aroma, sourced from southern Italy where volcanic soil and abundant sunlight produce a bright, tangy, and aromatic quality unmatched by bergamot from other regions. 

Juicy peach and plum accords follow, their velvety sweetness built with lactones and fruity esters to mimic the sun-warmed fruits of late summer orchards. These synthetic fruit notes are more luminous and persistent than the fleeting aroma of actual fruit. Cyclamen aldehyde, reinforced with hydroxycitronellal, lends a dewy, watery freshness, evoking morning light on orchard leaves and floral stems—clean, crisp, and subtly powdery, enhancing the juicy top notes with a green-floral lift.

The heart of Rumeur is a sumptuous floral bouquet layered with spice. Florentine iris concrete and Veronese orris butter, both from Italy, provide a powdery, buttery elegance; the iris root imparts a faint violet nuance, while the orris butter adds depth and creaminess. Ionone, a synthetic molecule related to violet, intensifies the powdery-floral character, giving the bouquet a refined, slightly ethereal quality. Chinese gardenia contributes creamy tropical florals, while Grasse rose and Grasse jasmine deliver classic French floral richness—the rose lush and honeyed, the jasmine indolic and subtly narcotic. Aromatic compounds like geraniol further enhance the green-fresh, rosy nuance, creating harmony in the bouquet. 

Spices enter the mix: Indonesian nutmeg, Ceylon cardamom, and Zanzibar clove, with eugenol highlighting clove’s warm, slightly metallic spiciness. These spices provide depth and intrigue, evoking the eastern gardens and marketplaces suggested by the fragrance’s oriental undertones. The heart balances the powdery elegance of the florals with warm, subtly exotic spice, creating a perfume that is both seductive and refined.

The base notes ground the composition in richness and sensuality. Middle Eastern resins—likely labdanum, benzoin, and olibanum—add balsamic warmth and subtle smokiness. Green leaf accords give a crisp vegetal freshness that prevents the base from feeling heavy. Animalic depth comes from Abyssinian civet, giving a musky, sensual warmth, harmonized by the soft, smoky sweetness of Virginia tobacco. Mexican vanilla enhanced with vanillin introduces creamy, balsamic sweetness, contrasting with the slightly bitter Maltese labdanum and leather notes. 

Isobutyl quinoline, a synthetic molecule with a deep, leathery, almost bitter edge, heightens the perfume’s complexity, while Penang patchouli and Mysore sandalwood provide earthy, camphoraceous depth and creamy woodiness, respectively. Venezuelan tonka bean and coumarin add sweet, nutty, hay-like warmth. Tyrolean oakmoss, Java vetiver, and vetiveryl acetate form the chypre backbone: oakmoss adds dry, green, slightly woody sharpness, vetiver lends smoky, rooty earthiness, and vetiveryl acetate smooths the composition with a dry, creamy facet. Together, these base elements create a long-lasting, sensual, and mysterious finish that lingers on the skin like a secret whispered in the evening.

The overall impression of Rumeur is one of intrigue and elegance: the tangy, fruity top notes evoke sunlit orchards; the powdery, spicy floral heart recalls delicate yet passionate femininity; and the rich, resinous base evokes shadowed forests, exotic spices, and luxurious furs. Each ingredient, whether natural or synthetic, contributes to a multi-layered experience: synthetics like aldehydes, cyclamen aldehyde, ionone, vanillin, and isobutyl quinoline enhance and amplify the natural materials, adding longevity, brightness, and depth while allowing the luxurious natural florals, woods, and resins to shine. It is a fragrance that charms and holds back, seductive yet restrained, perfectly capturing the mystery, sophistication, and modern femininity of the 1930s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Rumeur by Lanvin first debuted in 1934, quickly establishing itself as a sophisticated and alluring fragrance. Celebrated for its tangy, fruity, and spicy chypre character, it captivated women with its sparkling aldehydic top notes, powdery iris and jasmine heart, and warm, resinous base. Over the decades, Rumeur became a symbol of refined elegance, particularly appreciated for its ability to complement luxurious attire such as furs, and for evoking a sense of mystery and subtle sensuality. 

From its early years, Rumeur was recognized as a fragrance with a particular affinity for luxury and sophistication. A 1935 Stage article noted its suitability for furs, emphasizing that most perfumes tended to leave an unpleasant, sour residue on fur once the initial scent faded. In contrast, Rumeur was described as vivacious, designed to maintain its elegance and freshness even when worn on the rich textures of mink or sable, signaling Lanvin’s attention to both aesthetic and functional qualities in her perfumes.

By 1936, Vogue celebrated the fragrance as a midday companion, describing it as “the aroma that envelops the lasting flavor of summer in a golden scarf, the juice of flowers that are already honey.” This poetic evocation highlights the perfume’s luminous, sun-kissed floral character, suggesting that its aldehydic, fruity, and floral top notes captured the warmth, sweetness, and subtle glow of a summer orchard, wrapped around the wearer like a golden silk scarf.

During the early 1940s, French press continued to emphasize Rumeur’s evocative power. Le Petit Parisien in 1941 contrasted it with another Lanvin fragrance, Scandal, noting that while Scandal evoked the exotic allure of leather and wanderlust, Rumeur, “with resin scents, reveals iris and jasmine, which captivate and retain like a marvelous horizon.” The metaphor of a horizon conveys the perfume’s ability to suggest expansive, luminous spaces and lingering beauty, reflecting the long-lasting, sophisticated interplay of resins, powdery iris, and indolic jasmine in the composition.

By mid-century, the fragrance retained its cultural resonance. In 1950, L’Amour de l’Art described Rumeur as “like a distant noise, it brings the rumor of your elegance. A perfume of smiles and luck, it unites oriental flowers with iris and jasmine. It seems that East meets West ally for the triumph of this potion.” Here, the writing emphasizes the perfume’s cosmopolitan character, blending Eastern-inspired resins and spices with classical Western florals, creating a composition both alluring and balanced. The description evokes a subtle sophistication, where the fragrance functions as an invisible accessory, communicating elegance, charm, and worldly refinement.

Across these decades, the commentary consistently highlights Rumeur’s ability to envelop, captivate, and endure, from practical elegance on furs to poetic evocations of summer, horizon, and cross-cultural beauty. Its reputation as a perfume that harmonizes vivacity, floral opulence, and resinous depth demonstrates Lanvin’s mastery of a scent that is both functional and imaginatively expressive. Its initial production continued until around 1971, when shifting tastes in perfumery and the rise of lighter, more contemporary fragrances led to its discontinuation.

Bottles from 1934-1971:

Rumeur was available in the following:

• No. 528 - 1 oz Extrait
• No. 531 - 1/2 oz Bath Oil
• No. 562 - 2 oz Extrait
• No. 568 - 1/4 oz Extrait
• No. 569 - 1/2 oz Extrait
• No. 577 - 1/8 oz Extrait
• No. 585 - 1/4 oz Parfum Spray Mist
• No. 587 - 2.7 oz Extrait
• No. 02 505 - 2/3 oz Extrait

Boule Flacons:

The Boule flacons—Lanvin’s celebrated ball bottles—are among the most enduring icons of the house’s perfume presentation. Their origins can be traced to the spherical black glass bottles first used by Henriette Gabilla for her perfumes My Sin and Amour Américain. Lanvin adopted the idea and refined it into something distinctly its own. Produced by the Verrerie de Romesnil glassworks, Lanvin’s boules noires were crafted in deep black glass, their rounded form both modern and timeless. Each bottle bore a striking gold illustration of Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter, adapted from the celebrated artwork of Paul Iribe and Armand-Albert Rateau, which would become the house’s enduring emblem. For those preferring lighter brilliance, the boule was also available in colorless crystal with gold décor, adding a luminous alternative to the mysterious black glass.

By 1927, these bottles could be purchased as part of a luxurious atomizer set. The detachable atomizer apparatus was sold alongside a stopper, allowing women the choice of either a traditional flacon or the convenience of a spray—a remarkably modern feature for the era. The stoppers themselves evolved over time. Early examples showcased opulent gilded raspberry or pinecone forms, but by the end of the 1920s, these gave way to ribbed spherical stoppers, reflecting the more streamlined aesthetics of the Art Deco period.

The branding etched or printed onto the bottles also reflected the evolution of the house. From 1925 to 1947, they proudly displayed the name “Jeanne Lanvin”, directly tying the fragrances to their couturière founder. From 1947 to 1958, the bottles carried the label “Lanvin Parfums,” though some unusual crossover examples with earlier raspberry stoppers occasionally appear, likely the result of leftover stock being used. After 1958, the name simplified further to “Lanvin” or “Lanvin Paris,” aligning the perfume division with the house’s streamlined postwar identity.

What made the boule flacons truly remarkable was the range of sizes in which they were offered. At the smallest, they held just a quarter-ounce, delicate enough for travel or as a vanity accessory. At their grandest, they reached a monumental 32 ounces, designed more as statement pieces than practical bottles—symbols of abundance and luxury. Whether in its smallest or largest form, the boule flacon embodied Lanvin’s ethos: a blend of artistry, elegance, and innovation that has made these bottles some of the most collectible in perfume history.

Here is a quick guide to your bottle sizes if it is missing labels or boxes. Please note that this is a work in progress, more info will be added as it becomes available to me.

Raspberry stopper boule flacons:

• 1 oz = 2.25" tall
• 2 oz = 3.25" tall

Boule with ribbed stopper (original, not fully gilded ground glass stopper):

• 4.5" tall 
• 5.25" tall
• 32 oz 

Boule with ribbed stopper (fully gilded ground glass stopper):

• 0.25 oz = 2" tall
• 2 oz = 3 1/8" tall

Boule with ribbed stopper (fully gilded stopper with plastic plug):

• 0.5 oz = 2.5" tall

Square Bottles (Carre Flacons):

The demi-cristal square bottles (known as carre flacons) were usually reserved for parfum (extrait) but you can also find them used for Eau de Lanvin as well. Bottles will either be fitted with black glass stoppers or with black bakelite screw top caps. the black glass stoppers have gold baudruchage cording wrapped around the neck, the screw caps are black plastic with a gold ring around the neck. This guide will give you an idea what size you have if your bottle is missing it's label or the bottle does not say the size:

Black glass stopper parfum flacons:

• 4" tall
• 3.75" tall
• 3 oz stands 
• 1.9 oz (54g) stands 3.5" tall
• 1 oz (28g) stands 2.5" tall

Screw Top square parfum flacons:

• 1.9 oz stands 3.25" tall
• 1 oz (28g) stands 2.5" tall
• 1/2 oz (15g) stands almost 2.25" tall
• 1/4 oz stands almost 1.75" tall

Other Bottles:

1979 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1979, Lanvin reintroduced Rumeur with a reorchestrated, mossy-fruity formula, designed to align with modern trends and appeal to contemporary audiences, housed in a re-edition of classic art deco Lanvin bottles. While this version retained echoes of the original’s floral and chypre roots, it incorporated updated ingredients and accords to reflect late-20th-century sensibilities. 

When Lanvin reintroduced Rumeur in 1979, the press release cast the fragrance not merely as a return, but as a rediscovery of one of the house’s greatest olfactory creations. It began by evoking the glamorous world of 1934, the year of Rumeur’s original debut—a time when fashion was bold and audacious, and elegance carried the shimmer of extravagance. Satin gowns clung to the body, feather boas curled luxuriously around shoulders, and lips gleamed in the violent red favored by Hollywood icons. The spirit of the age was personified by the sultry voice of Marlene Dietrich in The Blue Angel and the mysterious allure of Greta Garbo, “the Divine.” Leisure meant indulgence: promenades in the Bois in sleek Talbot automobiles, glittering weekends at Deauville, and grand cruises aboard the Normandie. The perfume was positioned as belonging to that age of sophistication and daring.

Within this evocative backdrop, Rumeur was celebrated as a fragrance born of refinement and sensuality. The release described it as “enchanting, enveloping, and slightly exotic”—a composition that balanced the depth of chypre and woody notes with the lighthearted joy of fruity accords and the subtle freshness of natural rose essences. It was a perfume designed to charm, to linger, and to captivate, leaving behind a trail that was both fascinating and unmistakable. This interplay of sensuality, gaiety, and refinement was framed as timeless, bridging the elegance of the 1930s with the modern tastes of women in the late 1970s.

The relaunch emphasized that Rumeur was not a new creation but a revival, encouraging women to experience—or rediscover—a perfume that had once embodied an era’s glamour. It was offered in extrait concentration, underscoring its richness and quality, housed in the classic square Lanvin bottle—a visual reminder of the brand’s heritage and enduring style. The press release positioned Rumeur as both a nostalgic tribute and a contemporary luxury, a perfume that carried with it the memory of extravagance while speaking directly to the elegance of the present day.

Despite this modernization, the fragrance struggled to capture the same enduring appeal as its predecessor and was discontinued again in 1982, making it a brief chapter in the brand’s evolving perfume history.

Decades later, in 2006, Lanvin unveiled a completely new interpretation of Rumeur. This incarnation bore no direct olfactory continuity with the original, featuring a wholly new composition and an entirely redesigned bottle. The 2006 version reimagined the essence of the name—evoking intrigue, sophistication, and the poetic allure implied by the word “Rumeur”—while embracing contemporary tastes in fragrance design and presentation. Across these iterations, Rumeur demonstrates the enduring fascination of its concept, continually inspiring reinterpretation while maintaining the aura of elegance and mystery that Jeanne Lanvin originally intended.

2006 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 2006, Rumeur was reformulated by renowned perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and relaunched with a completely new identity. Unlike the original 1934 chypre, this version is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women, reflecting contemporary trends in perfume composition. Kurkdjian’s interpretation preserves the elegance and intrigue associated with the Rumeur name, but it expresses these qualities through a modern olfactory lens—blending soft, luminous florals with warm, sensual woods and a delicate musky base. The result is a fragrance that captures the spirit of the original while appealing to a new generation, emphasizing sophistication, intimacy, and contemporary femininity.

In 2007, Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz offered insight into the conceptual inspiration behind the modern Rumeur fragrance. While the name itself was drawn from the house archives, Elbaz explained that the perfume reflects “the perfect mix of today’s obsession with tabloid media and French charm.” The scent was envisioned as light and flowery, but not too light, capturing the essence of contemporary femininity while retaining sophistication and elegance. Its composition features a luminous bouquet of magnolia, white roses, jasmine, orange blossom, and lily of the valley, creating a floral ensemble that is not merely a formula, but an impression—a feeling, an emotional resonance that is immediately accessible yet subtly refined.

The design of the bottle further embodies the philosophy of the house. Its round, fluid form—balanced by a square base—mirrors the Lanvin label itself, while a gold emblem of a mother and child recalls the brand’s heritage. The choice of color and the emblem are deliberate: accessible, but not common, reflecting both approachability and luxury. Elbaz emphasized that the fragrance draws inspiration from the longevity and classic appeal of Arpège, yet is distinctly modern: a crisp, light floral blend that delights with freshness while retaining an enduring elegance.

Elbaz also described the perfume as “very light and friendly,” reflecting his broader design ethos. Known in the fashion world as a women-friendly designer, he expressed a profound admiration for femininity: “I love women. I have always been asked if I have a muse, but every woman I know is a muse.” In this context, Rumeur is more than a fragrance; it is a celebration of women, an olfactory expression of charm, warmth, and accessibility, bridging the legacy of Lanvin with the sensibilities of the modern era.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral woody musk fragrance for women

• Top notes: magnolia, aldehydes
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, mock orange, plum
• Base: patchouli, musk, amber

Scent Profile:

The fragrance opens with magnolia, immediately enveloping the senses in its creamy, luminous floral glow. Unlike many other white florals, magnolia carries a subtle citrusy brightness beneath its soft, waxy petals, evoking a warm spring morning. Alongside this, aldehydes sparkle like fine champagne bubbles, imparting lift and radiance to the composition. These synthetics enhance the natural florals, giving them a shimmering, almost abstract quality that makes the opening feel both airy and modern, creating a sense of anticipation for what is to follow.

As the scent settles, the heart unfolds into a lush floral bouquet. Rose, likely a classic French or Grasse variety, provides a honeyed, velvety richness, while jasmine adds indolic depth, introducing a slightly exotic, narcotic undertone. Lily of the valley contributes a green, dewy freshness, contrasting with the warmth of rose and jasmine, and evoking springtime gardens bathed in morning light. Mock orange brings a subtle citrusy-floral sweetness that enhances the airy brightness of the bouquet, blending seamlessly with a plum accord, which introduces juicy, velvety fruitiness and softens the florals with a sun-ripened roundness. The synthetics in the plum accord ensure the fruitiness remains luminous and long-lasting, giving the heart a delicate yet complex character.

The base grounds the fragrance with warmth and sensuality. Patchouli from Indonesia adds earthy, slightly camphoraceous depth, evoking the richness of forest floors and natural woods. Musk imparts a soft, skin-like warmth, subtly animalic yet refined, wrapping the wearer in a gentle intimacy. Amber contributes resinous sweetness and a subtle glow, anchoring the composition with a smooth, long-lasting sensuality. Together, these base notes create a lingering trail that is elegant and understated, enhancing the luminous, radiant florals above.

Overall, the 2006 Rumeur is a modern reinterpretation of elegance: the top notes sparkle with creamy brightness, the heart blooms with lush, layered florals and ripe fruit, and the base envelops the wearer in warm, sensual woods and resins. Synthetic elements such as aldehydes and fruit accords enhance the natural materials, ensuring longevity, clarity, and a contemporary feel, while the natural ingredients—magnolia, rose, jasmine, patchouli—retain their richness and authenticity, producing a fragrance that is luminous, intimate, and sophisticated.